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  <title>Women’s and Girls’ Hair — new research</title>
  <subtitle>An independent, source-led cultural history of how women and girls have cut, dressed, covered, coloured, curled, straightened, braided and understood their hair — from antiquity to the present, with Britain and Ireland at its centre.</subtitle>
  <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/feed.xml" rel="self"/>
  <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/"/>
  <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
  <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/</id>
  <author><name>Claire McDonald</name></author>
  <entry>
    <title>Curling tongs and the Marcel iron</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/objects/curling-tongs/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/objects/curling-tongs/</id>
    <summary>Heated metal pincers for curling and waving hair — a tool with a history of more than three thousand years, from Egyptian bronze to the salon Marcel iron.</summary>
    <category term="object"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>The hair dryer</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/objects/hair-dryer/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/objects/hair-dryer/</id>
    <summary>From a stoneware bottle of boiling water to the row of humming salon hoods — how drying, the slowest part of every set, was turned into a machine.</summary>
    <category term="object"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>The home permanent kit</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/objects/home-perm-kit/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/objects/home-perm-kit/</id>
    <summary>A box of lotions, rods and papers that brought the permanent wave out of the salon and into the kitchen — and, in some kits, onto children’s heads.</summary>
    <category term="object"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Antoine de Paris</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/people/antoine-de-paris/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/people/antoine-de-paris/</id>
    <summary>Antoni Cierplikowski, a Polish-born hairdresser who became “Antoine” of Paris — a celebrity salon owner long credited with the first fashionable ladies’ bob, a claim still without contemporary proof.</summary>
    <category term="person"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Annie Turnbo Malone</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/people/annie-malone/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/people/annie-malone/</id>
    <summary>Founder of the Poro hair-care company and its training network — a pioneer of Black women’s enterprise often overshadowed in popular memory.</summary>
    <category term="person"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Christina M. Jenkins</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/people/christina-jenkins/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/people/christina-jenkins/</id>
    <summary>Ohio cosmetologist who patented a method of weaving added hair onto a client&#39;s own hair in 1952, called it the Hair-Weev, and spent four decades teaching it — a founder of modern sewn-in weaving, not the inventor of added hair.</summary>
    <category term="person"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>J. D. ’Okhai Ojeikere</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/people/jd-okhai-ojeikere/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/people/jd-okhai-ojeikere/</id>
    <summary>Nigerian photographer whose Hairstyles series, begun in 1968, is one of the richest visual records of women’s hair in any country — made in the years after independence from British rule, and now held in London as well as Paris and New York.</summary>
    <category term="person"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Karl Nessler</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/people/karl-nessler/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/people/karl-nessler/</id>
    <summary>The Black Forest-born hairdresser who, trading in London as “Charles Nestlé”, patented a heated permanent-waving process in 1909 — then rebuilt his business in New York after wartime internment.</summary>
    <category term="person"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Kwame Brathwaite</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/people/kwame-brathwaite/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/people/kwame-brathwaite/</id>
    <summary>Harlem photographer whose pictures of the Grandassa Models and the “Naturally” fashion shows made natural hair a visible ideal of beauty in the early 1960s, and whose images reached Black publications in Britain at the time.</summary>
    <category term="person"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Marcel Grateau</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/people/marcel-grateau/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/people/marcel-grateau/</id>
    <summary>The Paris hairdresser whose name became the Marcel wave — a heated-iron wave worn for half a century. The technique’s fame is well documented; much of his life, and the patents often credited to him, are not.</summary>
    <category term="person"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Marjorie Stewart Joyner</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/people/marjorie-stewart-joyner/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/people/marjorie-stewart-joyner/</id>
    <summary>Beautician, teacher and Walker company executive who patented a permanent-waving machine in 1928 and spent half a century training hairdressers — and organising them.</summary>
    <category term="person"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Rose Meta Morgan</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/people/rose-meta-morgan/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/people/rose-meta-morgan/</id>
    <summary>Harlem beautician and entrepreneur whose Rose Meta House of Beauty was described as the largest Black beauty salon in the world, and who helped found a Black-owned bank in Harlem.</summary>
    <category term="person"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Vidal Sassoon</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/people/vidal-sassoon/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/people/vidal-sassoon/</id>
    <summary>London hairdresser whose precision, geometric cutting made the cut itself the style in the 1960s — and, for some clients, replaced the weekly shampoo and set with a cut every few weeks.</summary>
    <category term="person"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Age and hair</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/stories/age-and-hair/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/stories/age-and-hair/</id>
    <summary>Who decides how a girl’s hair is worn, when that power passes to her, and what happens to it again in old age — a history told across a lifetime rather than a decade.</summary>
    <category term="story"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Black British hair</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/stories/black-british-hair/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/stories/black-british-hair/</id>
    <summary>From suitcases packed with hot combs to Tottenham hair businesses, Brixton salons, Alexandra Palace hair shows and the Halo Code — a history of hair in Black British communities since 1945, told as skill, trade, family time and pleasure as well as struggle.</summary>
    <category term="story"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>From kitchen to salon</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/stories/from-kitchen-to-salon/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/stories/from-kitchen-to-salon/</id>
    <summary>Most hair work has always been done unpaid, at home, by mothers, sisters, friends and women themselves. This essay follows that labour into the paid salon — a trade, a workplace, a women’s business and a meeting place — mainly in Britain and Ireland, with American and diasporic comparison.</summary>
    <category term="story"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>How trends travel</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/stories/how-trends-travel/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/stories/how-trends-travel/</id>
    <summary>From engraved coiffure plates to TikTok, each new medium changed how fast a hairstyle could be seen. This essay follows the channels (prints, photographs, film, fan magazines, trade journals, television and platforms) and asks what evidence could ever show that a famous head caused many others to follow.</summary>
    <category term="story"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Rules about hair</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/stories/rules-about-hair/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/stories/rules-about-hair/</id>
    <summary>Prisons, poorhouses, hospitals, kitchens, factories, schools and the army have all written rules about women’s and girls’ hair. This essay compares what the rules said with how they were enforced, separates genuine task-specific safety from demands for a particular look, and asks whose natural hair was treated as the problem — mainly in Britain, from the 1840s to today.</summary>
    <category term="story"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Heat, electricity and chemistry</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/stories/technology-and-chemistry/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/stories/technology-and-chemistry/</id>
    <summary>Taps, shampoo, tongs, dryers, perm machines, relaxers, synthetic dyes, plastics and fibres all changed what could be done with hair. This essay asks what each one cost in time, labour and money — and who could afford it — mainly in Britain, with American comparison.</summary>
    <category term="story"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>The Afro</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/styles/afro/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/styles/afro/</id>
    <summary>Coily hair worn in its own texture and shaped into a rounded form — a powerful image of pride and politics, and also a style people wore for many other reasons.</summary>
    <category term="style"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>The beehive</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/styles/beehive/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/styles/beehive/</id>
    <summary>A tall, rounded dome of backcombed hair — one of the few styles with a named, dated creator, and a lesson in how a magazine commission could become a decade’s silhouette.</summary>
    <category term="style"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>The bob</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/styles/bob/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/styles/bob/</id>
    <summary>A family of short cuts whose meanings kept changing — from a 1920s statement to 1960s geometry to a style so familiar it now barely registers.</summary>
    <category term="style"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Braids and plaits</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/styles/braids/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/styles/braids/</id>
    <summary>One of the oldest ways of dressing hair — and not one style but many, from a school plait tied with a ribbon to cornrows, box braids and ancient braided wigs.</summary>
    <category term="style"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>The bun and chignon</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/styles/bun/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/styles/bun/</id>
    <summary>Hair gathered, coiled and pinned — a form that has meant imperial elegance, respectable adulthood, workplace safety and, lately, deliberate messiness.</summary>
    <category term="style"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Locs</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/styles/locs/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/styles/locs/</id>
    <summary>Rope-like strands formed as hair is allowed or encouraged to mat — worn across many cultures and faiths, and still penalised by some school and workplace rules.</summary>
    <category term="style"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>The ponytail</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/styles/ponytail/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/styles/ponytail/</id>
    <summary>Hair gathered and tied at the back of the head — practical for school and sport, a symbol of 1950s teenagers, and a style whose tightness matters.</summary>
    <category term="style"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Victory rolls</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/styles/victory-rolls/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/styles/victory-rolls/</id>
    <summary>Hair rolled high at the front and pinned — the style most people now picture for the 1940s, and one of the most revived.</summary>
    <category term="style"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Wigs and hairpieces</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/styles/wigs/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/styles/wigs/</id>
    <summary>Added hair is part of hair culture, not &quot;fake hair&quot; — from ancient plaited wigs to Victorian switches, 1960s fashion wigs, extensions and wigs worn through illness.</summary>
    <category term="style"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Permanent waving</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/techniques/permanent-waving/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/techniques/permanent-waving/</id>
    <summary>Changing the shape of hair until it grows out — from hours attached to a heated machine to a cold-wave kit on the kitchen table.</summary>
    <category term="technique"/>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Pressing and straightening</title>
    <link href="https://hairfashionhistory.com/techniques/pressing/"/>
    <updated>2026-11-12T00:00:00Z</updated>
    <id>https://hairfashionhistory.com/techniques/pressing/</id>
    <summary>Straightening curly and coily hair with a heated comb, and later with chemical relaxers and smoothing treatments — skilled work with a long, contested history.</summary>
    <category term="technique"/>
  </entry>
</feed>
